Your Guinea Pig's Home
Obtaining suitable housing for your new pet is the first step in preparing
for your guinea pig's stay in your home. Safe bedding, ample room and
a proper cage design are all essential for providing your cavy with a
place where he or she can feel safe and secure.
Selecting a Cage
You really have three choices when choosing a home for your guinea pig: you
can opt for a commercially available cage, have one custom-built for you
from a pet or feed-and-garden store, or build your own. No matter which
route you take, however, there are some basic guidelines to follow:
- Each guinea pig should have a minimum of two square feet in its
cage. If you opt to house more than one cavy in the same cage, you should
adjust the available space accordingly (four square feet for two, six square
feet for three, and so on). Although it is possible to house two guinea
pigs in three square feet, this should be considered maximum
crowding, and should be a temporary situation until a larger cage can be
obtained.
- You should never, ever house a guinea pig in a cage with a wire
bottom. Guinea pigs can very easily get their feet caught in the wire mesh,
and break their limbs. Ferret cages, in particular, look attractive to many
new guinea pig owners because of their size and multiple levels, but the
wire mesh bottoms make them completely unsuitable, and very dangerous.
- Try to find a cage with a removable bottom pan, if you opt for a
commercial cage. It makes cage cleaning very easy.
- Cages with a hinged top are easier to manage than those with side
entrances, unless you can find a cage where the entire front panel opens up
(these are the kinds off cages that many breeders use). Most commercial
cages only have a small "doorway" that opens in front, and it is very
difficult to reach in and remove your guinea pig from them. One of the
advantages of a cage with a side doorway, however, is that it makes it
possible for you to open the cage up to the room, and let your guinea pig
wander in and out at will.
- Large Aquariums can be used as cages, but be aware that they are more
difficult to clean thoroughly and provide little to no air circulation
through the cage. In order to keep a glass aquarium sanitary, you will
need to clean it more very thoroughly, and allow it to air out after
disinfecting (or the fumes will overwhelm your cavies). Also, tremendous
heat pressure can build up inside a glass aquarium: make sure the sun
never shines directly on it. And finally, aquariums can isolate
your guinea pig from its environment, which can lead to a less active
animal. In general, glass aquariums are okay as long as you are aware of
the risks, but most owners will recommend a traditional, wire cage.
Most commercially available cages are designed to house exactly one
guinea pig. They can run anywhere from $30 to $50, depending on their
quality, and are an excellent starting cage for a single pet. They also
make good "travel" cages if you have multiple guinea pigs at home, and need
to take one or two in to the vet.
If you wish to have more than one guinea pig, however, then you pretty much
need to build your own guinea pig cage, or have someone build one for you.
There are several different ways of making a suitable home for your
guinea pigs; one idea is presented
here.
Safe Beddings
After you have picked out your cage, you will need to line the bottom with
bedding. Your bedding will serve three purposes:
- It is the "toilet" for your cavy, and should ideally absorb
urine, bury droppings and control odors.
- It provides your cavy with a soft surface to walk and sleep on, as well
as provide insulation and warmth.
- Depending on the bedding, your guinea pigs may also play in it, burrow
through it and eat it to alleviate boredom.
When choosing a bedding for your cavy, you should take the following into
account: health risks, cost, odor control, required amount, lasting quality
and your guinea pig's preferences. Given below is a description of several
types of beddings, that is neither complete nor definitive.
- Cedar shavings should be avoided at all costs. Cedar
has been shown in studies to be hazardous, causing chronic respiratory
conditions in mammals. Some animals are even allergic to cedar, and can
develop severe skin rashes or more severe respiratory conditions. The
problem with cedar shavings stems mostly from the oils that give it its
aromatic scent. Unfortunately, it is this aroma that makes cedar so
inviting as a bedding, as it covers up ammonia odors well.
- Like cedar shavings, pine shavings are also believed to be
hazardous to the health of small mammals, though this is more widely
disputed. Like cedar, pine is a soft wood whose oils give it an aromatic
scent. Although there is still some debate as to how dangerous pine really
is, many serious owners of small mammals such as guinea pigs, rats, mice and
the like will recommend against its use. If forced to choose between pine
and cedar, pine is definitely the better choice, but you really should avoid
both if at all possible.
- Aspen shavings are completely safe as bedding, but are much more
expensive than cedar or pine, if you can find them at all. Another problem
with aspen is that it is a hardwood, and hence has no natural oils to give it
a strong scent. This means that aspen doesn't function too well for odor
control, making it necessary to change the bedding more often.
- A popular alternative to wood shavings is CareFRESH, which is
made from wood pulp fibers that are too short to be made in to paper. The
fibers are processed to form what looks like shredded egg cartons.
CareFRESH's greatest strength is its odor-control: like most paper-based
beddings, CareFRESH inhibits the formation of ammonia.
- Crown Animal Bedding consists of recycled newspaper that is
compressed into pellet form. Like CareFRESH, it is excellent at odor
control, but it's dense pellets don't make it ideal as the sole bedding in
the cage. Crown works best when used in combination with another bedding,
serving as the odor control agent underneath a layer of softer bedding,
such as timothy hay.
- Another recycled paper, pelleted bedding is Yesterday's News.
It comes in regular pellets and soft texture pellets, and contains
an odor-controlling agent.
- Corn cob bedding is also an alternative, though it is more prone
to growing mold than other beddings.
- Straw is completely unsuitable as bedding. It does not absorb
urine, and the hard stalks can cause serious injuries.
- Timothy hay is arguably the best bedding for guinea pigs.
In additional to being an essential food source, guinea pigs will
tunnel through it, make "nests" in it for sleeping and play with it.
Timothy also smells nice when fresh. It is best to buy hay directly
from a feed and garden store or a farmer, as the commercially packaged
hay that is sold in pet stores has been dried out to prevent molding
on the shelf. It is harder, drier and less suitable as bedding than fresh
hay.
The only problem with hay as beeding is that it does not control odors, and
molds very quickly when it gets wet or soiled. Hence, it is best to use hay
on top of another form of bedding, such as Crown or CareFRESH, for odor
control. The hay will have to be changed every one or two days, but the
absorbent base can last a week or more.
Timothy hay is more expensive than most other grass hays because it is
difficult to grow, and a large portion of the hay grown in the Pacific
Northwest is actually shipped to Japan. If bought by the bale, however,
it is very cost effective: in the US, most bales of hay run between $8 and $15
depending on where you live, and will easily last several months.
If you don't have a local supplier for timothy hay, you can purchase it
from the Oxbow Hay Company.
Emily Rocke writes: "...several people (including me) have had good luck
with the Oxbow Hay Company in Nebraska, which ships UPS. Three 15 oz
bags of Timothy costs $11.55, including shipping and handling. You can
call 800-249-0366 to order or to ask for more information. This is a
family business and the number goes into their home, so you may get an
answering machine sometimes, even during office hours. It helps if you
leave numbers where you can be reached both by day and in the evening."
The Oxbow Hay company will even set up "schedules" of shipments for you.
Information on properly storing
hay to prevent molding can be found here.
- Many people wonder whether or not cat litter is a good
bedding for guinea pigs. As a general rule, it's not a good choice:
your guinea pigs will more than likely try to eat it, and most cat litters
contain chemicals to mask odors that could be harmful to a cavy's health.
If you insist on using a cat litter, however, you can opt for some of the
"environmentally safe" products, made from recycled paper and such, and
most of these are not much different than the beddings described above.
Also, avoid "clumping" litters, as they make nasty messes that are
difficult to clean, and the clumps of feces may actually stick to your
cavy's hair. Remember: unlike cats, your guinea pigs live
in their litter.
Some people opt to line the bottoms of their cage with newspapers and/or
linoleum. Using newspapers can help prevent the buildup of urine stones in
the cage, but it can be messy and smelly as the paper gets saturated between
changings. There are advantages and disadvantages to using newspapers, and
it's pretty much a matter of personal preference whether you do this or not.
If you do opt to line your cage with newspapers, however, it is recommended
that you use only black-and-white pages.
Linoleum is popular for people who build their own cages, particularly those
with wooden bases. It's cheap and easy to clean, or can be tossed out and
replaced if needed, without too much hassle. If you do opt to use linoleum,
there is one caution: watch your piggies, and periodically check the lino,
to see if they are nibbling on it. Eating linoleum, or any kind of plastic
or vinyl, can cause blockages in a guinea pig that may be life-threatening.
If your guinea pig is eating the linoleum, then you need to either protect
the edges so your cavy can't nibble on it, or take it out.
Cage Supplies
In addition to the cage itself, there are some items that you will need or
want to purchase that will mount on or go inside of your cage. Among the
necessities are the food dish and water bottle. The water bottle should
mount on outside of the cage with the tube coming down at an angle, through
the bars and into the cage. Water bottles with the stainless steel tubes
are the best, since guinea pigs actually chew on the ends of the tubes as
they drink. Don't give water in a bowl; it will rapidly become soiled with
urine and droppings, if the guinea pig doesn't spill it out first.
The food dish should have a wider base than the top, so that it can't be
tipped over. Alternatively, you can select a food dish that mounts on the
side of the cage, or a sifter feeder. It's best to use a small dish with a
narrow opening at the top so that your guinea pig can't sit in the food
dish; baby guinea pigs especially are fond of this activity. If your
cavy can do this, it will invariably end up peeing or pooping in the supper
dish, effectively soiling all the food therein.
In addition to the food bowl, you may want to purchase a hay rack,
especially if you use hay as your bedding. The rack will prevent the hay
from becoming soiled by urine and droppings, keeping your guinea pig's daily
supply fresh. The hay rack mounts on the outside of the cage, and the
guinea pig pulls the hay into the cage to nibble. Some guinea pigs like to
play with their hay racks, too, tugging on long strands of hay and pulling
them out for fun.
Some people like to mount a salt or mineral wheel in the cage. Although
it's not necessary for a guinea pig, some pigs do like them, and they
last practically forever. The only caution is that some owners have noticed
an increase in "sludge" in their piggies' urine when using these items,
which could be a precursor to the formation of uroliths (bladder stones).
For terrain and variety, many people like to add rocks, bricks and tubes to
their cage. These not only provide rough surfaces for wearing down claws,
but also hiding places and things to climb on or around to help alleviate
boredom. Bricks are especially cheap and rocks are often times free. For
tunnels and tubes, don't buy commercial ferret tubes; they are overpriced,
and may not be wide enough for your adult piggie. Instead, go to a home
building supply store (such as Home Depot or Home Base), and purchase 4"
diameter PVC pipe fittings. Elbow and "T" joints work especially well, and
sell for less than $10 each. The PVC plastic is hard, durable and easy to
clean.
Some guinea pigs even like bird toys, particularly the mirrors with bells
around them. In addition, some owners will put in old towels or cloths for
the guinea pig to hide or nest in. This also provides the guinea pig with
something that has your "scent" on it, which will help them become used to,
and comfortable around, you.
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